Name | MZ-R5ST |
---|---|
Manufacturer | Sony |
Released | 1997/11 |
Device type | portable |
Recorder | Recorder |
MDLP | No |
NetMD | No |
Hi-MD | No |
Radio | No |
Dimensions | 109.5 x 20.1 x 77 mm (Player) 232 x 61 x 154mm (Dock) |
Weight | 185g (Body Only) 235g (With Batteries) 970g (Dock) |
ATRAC ver | 3.5 |
Battery | LIP-8 |
Battery notes | |
Sidecar (depr) | 2xAA |
Voltage | 9 |
Power cable | |
Price (launch) | |
¥72 000 | |
- | |
Inputs | 3.5mm line in (analog-only), 3.5mm microphone, RCA in, Digital optical (TOSLINK) |
Outputs | 3.5mm line out (analog-only), RCA out, Digital optical (TOSLINK) |
Control | Remote (Sony) |
Sony MZ-R5ST
Portable recorder with docking station. Docking Station provides many more titling and editing options. The docking station even has a remote! While similar in size to the MZ-R50, the portable unit is completely different. Be aware that there are two AA-size NiCD or NiMH hidden inside the main unit, which may have corroded. Checking / replacement is covered in the user manual.
Model Name Using Similar Mechanism: MZ-R50
Mini Disc Mechanism: MT-MZR50-143
Optical Pick-up: KMS-280A/J2N
ATRAC IC: CXD2652AR
Content adapted from: MZ-R5ST Minidisc.org Page
Manuals
MZ-R5ST User manual - Japanese
MZ-R5ST User manual - English Only
Repair
Owners are advised to check the state of the internal rechargable batteries, as these units are quite old now and the batteries most probably leaking. If left for years then the leakage will spread and dissolve circuit traces and small components such as SMD resistors and capacitors.
The checking process involves removing the bottom case:
- Pull off the 'REC LEVEL' control knob
- Turn the unit upside down on some paper or cloth, with the I/O ports at the back facing away from you
- Undo the six screws in the deep holes marked with a double dashed arrow (two at each end, two in the middle but off centre)
- The case should come off, but angle it slightly so it comes off the front first and rear ports last
You should see something like the picture below:
In this case, the batteries ('Tinko' brand) were probably a replacement for the original Sony versions, which in the picture below are clearly leaking and crusted with electrolyte crystals:
Some evidence of corrosion may be obvious on the top surface, without further inspection, e.g the areas circled red in the picture below.
Looking back at the board picture, you have to remove the batteries from the ends at the centre division of the compartment, as the other end of each battery is inaccessible. Gently levering the ends up with a small screwdriver is probably the best way to get them out.
Depending on the state of the decay and leakage, you may find that battery fluid has spread across the circuit board on both sides, so removal of the board from the rest of the base unit is necessary.
To do this, gently take out the 7 screws highlighted in red circles below, and the board should lift away from the rest of the base unit. Don't worry about the large copper sheet at the moment, as it is soldered on. Be careful of the separate contact pin module on the right hand side which may be joined to the board by red and black wires; it may need gently prising off once the two screws are removed.
You will then need to examine carefully whether any damage is done.
<rest of page under construction…>